Zhiju Dress(The Direct Garment): Through cutting townwear for men, fasten by belt or corset.

裁的男子日常服装，系腰带或腰封。

Gaultier did all that by working in his stock characters and garments: the matelot, the androgynous lady in the pantsuit, the trenches, the smokings, the corsets.

他服装来赋予穿着者格，比如水手装、女者的便装、战地军装、吸烟服、紧身胸衣等等。